Tee7days – Five Finger Death Punch Hell To Pay T-shirt

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Photographed by Fujio Emura. Set Design by Grace Beck.Whether the object of nostalgia or a newfound novelty, pandan products are a proven crowd-pleaser. “There was definitely a pandan craze—I’d go to Lady Wong [bakery] and couldn’t get any of the pandan kuih because people were going crazy for it,” says Park, referring to the Singaporean-style patisserie opened by husband-and-wife team Mogan Anthony and Seleste Tan in February—the success of which has already led to a second location in the new street-food-inspired Urban Hawker food hall. For New York transplants like Park, the swift expansion of Southeast Asian offerings comes as a welcome corrective. “I think people are starting to understand the wider scope of Asian cooking and culture,” says the cake-maker. “I think it’s about Southeast Asian voices and perspectives being heard for the first time in the mainstream.”

Five Finger Death Punch Hell To Pay T-shirt

For pastry chef Lauren Tran, pandan played a winning role in bridging those gaps. As a rookie chef at Gramercy Tavern, she won the restaurant’s prestigious pie contest with a pandan-lemongrass coconut cream pie—flavors she might not have chosen had she not moved to New York from Seattle in 2018. “Until I moved to New York, I hadn’t baked with [pandan] before, because it was so accessible [on the West Coast],” says Tran. “New York is so diverse but I realized it was actually pretty scarce when it comes to Southeast Asian desserts.” When it came to launching her own company, Bánh by Lauren, the need for more comprehensive culinary representation was again a north star. “That was the whole reason why I did this—because, during COVID, I was really craving Vietnamese desserts and I couldn’t find them anywhere. I was like, ‘Okay, I’m going to do what I want to do with the flavors that I like,’” she says. Currently operating out of her Brooklyn kitchen and at periodic pop-ups, Tran plans to have a permanent space for homestyle treats, which include the ever-popular pandan chiffon cake and a jewel-toned bánh bò loaf. “I think a lot of people in New York are doing [what I did],” Tran adds. “They’re like, ‘I can showcase what is special to my culture that I don’t see here, and hopefully there are other people who miss it and want it too.’”Indeed, bakers aren’t the only ones driving up pandan demand. At Zaab Zaab in Elmhurst, which specializes in Isan Thai food, chef Aniwat Khotsopa stuffs the charcoal-roasted catfish with pandan and lemongrass. For its “Tiger Killer” and “Knockout Tiger” cocktails, Thai-Japanese speakeasy 11 Tigers stocks pandan-flavored rum and pandan ya dong, a Thai version of moonshine. And at Madame Vo, pandan adds an extra colorful kick to the Vietnamese iced latte.

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Nor is pandan pandemonium limited to professional kitchens. Joe Boo, co-founder of the e-commerce delivery platform Asian-Veggies.com and the son of a Queens produce wholesaler, launched his DTC service in 2020 to streamline a fragmented marketplace. Though he envisioned frozen pandan leaves as a “gateway” product—one that would drive awareness of the site by showing up in web searches—they proved strong sellers in themselves. “We know that pandan is a highly demanded product,” says Boo. “When we launched pandan on our site, we sold out three or four cases within a week, which is a lot. That’s like 200 individual orders.”Each contains not only a cooking-and-baking power tool, but, as Kopitiam founder Kyo Pang suggests, the chance for a unique encounter as well. “My grandmother would say pandan is like a person, [in that] a person can be anything,” she says. “When I blend it or squeeze it or whatever, it’s like the leaf was asleep and now I’m waking it up.” Having opened Kopitiam in 2015, Pang maintains that soul connection through dishes like the pandan-wrapped chicken, which she still assembles herself. “The [recipe] is actually from my maternal grandmother,” she explains. “It’s hard to train people how to do the triangle. It’s very traditional, and very time-consuming, but it’s the original.”

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